<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE article PUBLIC "-//NLM//DTD Journal Publishing with OASIS Tables v3.0 20080202//EN" "journalpub-oasis3.dtd">
<article xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:oasis="http://docs.oasis-open.org/ns/oasis-exchange/table" xml:lang="en" dtd-version="3.0"><?xmltex \bartext{17th EMS Annual Meeting: European Conference for Applied Meteorology and Climatology 2017}?>
  <front>
    <journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher">ASR</journal-id><journal-title-group>
    <journal-title>Advances in Science and Research</journal-title>
    <abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="publisher">ASR</abbrev-journal-title><abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="nlm-ta">Adv. Sci. Res.</abbrev-journal-title>
  </journal-title-group><issn pub-type="epub">1992-0636</issn><publisher>
    <publisher-name>Copernicus Publications</publisher-name>
    <publisher-loc>Göttingen, Germany</publisher-loc>
  </publisher></journal-meta>
    <article-meta>
      <article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.5194/asr-15-145-2018</article-id><title-group><article-title>Case study of the winter 2013/2014 extreme wave<?xmltex \hack{\break}?> events off the west coast of Ireland</article-title><alt-title>Case study of the winter 2013/2014 extreme wave events</alt-title>
      </title-group><?xmltex \runningtitle{Case study of the winter 2013/2014 extreme wave events}?><?xmltex \runningauthor{J.~Janji\'{c} et al.}?>
      <contrib-group>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes" rid="aff1">
          <name><surname>Janjić</surname><given-names>Jelena</given-names></name>
          <email>jelena.janjic@ucdconnect.ie</email>
        <ext-link>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2720-572X</ext-link></contrib>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="no" rid="aff2">
          <name><surname>Gallagher</surname><given-names>Sarah</given-names></name>
          
        </contrib>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="no" rid="aff1">
          <name><surname>Dias</surname><given-names>Frédéric</given-names></name>
          
        <ext-link>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5123-4929</ext-link></contrib>
        <aff id="aff1"><label>1</label><institution>School of Mathematics and Statistics, University College Dublin,
MaREI Centre, Dublin, Ireland</institution>
        </aff>
        <aff id="aff2"><label>2</label><institution>Research, Environment and
Applications, Met Éireann, Dublin, Ireland</institution>
        </aff>
      </contrib-group>
      <author-notes><corresp id="corr1">Jelena Janjić (jelena.janjic@ucdconnect.ie)</corresp></author-notes><pub-date><day>26</day><month>July</month><year>2018</year></pub-date>
      
      <volume>15</volume>
      <fpage>145</fpage><lpage>157</lpage>
      <history>
        <date date-type="received"><day>28</day><month>November</month><year>2017</year></date>
           <date date-type="rev-recd"><day>21</day><month>May</month><year>2018</year></date>
           <date date-type="accepted"><day>6</day><month>June</month><year>2018</year></date>
      </history>
      <permissions>
        
        
      <license license-type="open-access"><license-p>This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this licence, visit <ext-link ext-link-type="uri" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/</ext-link></license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018.html">This article is available from https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018.html</self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018.pdf">The full text article is available as a PDF file from https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018.pdf</self-uri>
      <abstract>
    <p id="d1e102">Using the third generation WAVEWATCH III wave model in an unstructured
formulation, and driven by HARMONIE-AROME mesoscale model hourly winds with a
2.5 km horizontal resolution, we reproduce the winter storms of 2013/2014
and analyse their effect on the western coastline of Ireland. WAVEWATCH III
was forced at its ocean boundaries by directional wave spectra obtained from
the ECMWF ERA-Interim re-analysis dataset. The wave model has a high
resolution grid (up to 225 m resolution in the nearshore) with around
20 000 nodes, producing an abundance of important wave parameters outputted
hourly, enabling a high quality, high-resolution analysis of the winter
storms of 2013/2014.</p>
  </abstract>
    </article-meta>
  </front>
<body>
      

<sec id="Ch1.S1" sec-type="intro">
  <title>Introduction</title>
      <p id="d1e112">A significant portion of the electrical energy required globally could
potentially be supplied by harnessing wave energy and waters of the northeast
Atlantic are ideal for ocean energy extraction. Wave Energy Converters (WECs)
transform wave energy to mechanical energy and finally to electricity. Wave
energy conversion depends highly on average energy available for extraction,
direction of incoming waves (for unidirectional WECs) and wave
frequency/period because WECs extract the maximum energy if they are tuned to
match this frequency. These wave characteristics can be described by wave
parameters like wave energy flux, mean or peak direction, and various types
of wave periods. In extremely energetic sea states we have a large energy
resource but there is also a risk of WEC damage and Ireland has a long
history of storm waves reaching its shores. Due to its position in the
Northeast Atlantic, Ireland is regularly on the path of very energetic
extratropical weather systems, which can bring with them phenomenal
sea-states and extreme wave conditions. For this reason, developers of ocean
energy devices need to take into account that although there is a huge ocean
energy resource available off the west coast of Ireland, there is a
percentage of extreme events like the ones during winter 2013/2014 which may
cause damage to the devices. Since the buoy data in Irish waters are sparse,
both in space and in time, a hindcast properly validated against available
measurements will allow developers to improve WEC design and choose adequate
locations for device deployment, ensuring that device operation encounters as
little down-time as possible.</p>
      <p id="d1e115">The storms of winter 2013/2014 had various effects on the Atlantic coast of
Europe. This winter experienced beach changes <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="paren.1"/>, severe
gale strength winds, above average rainfall amounts and notable storm surges
(Met Office: Winter storms: December, n.d.; Met Office: Winter storms:
January, n.d.; Met Office: Winter 2013/14, n.d.;
Met Éireann: December, n.d.; Met Éireann: January, n.d; Met Éireann: Winter, n.d.) causing a lot of coastal damage and inland
flooding across the Atlantic coast of Europe. More than USD 1.8 billion
worth of damage in the UK was estimated <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx22" id="paren.2"/>. A study by Matthews
et al. (2014) showed that the winter 2013/2014 was the stormiest (they
characterised storminess by taking into account the frequency and intensity
of cyclones) in the last 143 years, again confirming that this winter was
indeed exceptional.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F1"><caption><p id="d1e126">Map of Met Éireann stations and the location of the observations
of wave and wind parameters used in this study. The location of the wave
buoys used for model validation, Kinsale Gas Platform, Killard and the M4
buoy, are marked with blue pins. The location of the three TUCSON coastal
stations, Sherkin Island, Mace Head and Malin Head, are marked with red
pins.</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=241.848425pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f01.png"/>

      </fig>

      <p id="d1e135">For this reason, several studies have begun to examine if these extreme
events are linked to anthropologically caused climate change (Masselink et
al., 2016; Matthews et al., 2014; Wild et al., 2016). Masselink et al. (2016)
proposed that it is tempting to assign these extreme events to climate<?pagebreak page146?> change
due to the predictions of increased storminess by climate models. A study by
Wolf and Wolf (2013) concluded that the influence and impact of climate
change on the northeast Atlantic waves and storms was still uncertain, while
Wild et al. (2016) inferred that the large number of storms of the winter
2013/2014 could not be directly related to anthropogenic factors.</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F2" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e141">Timeseries of significant wave height for December 2013 comparing
observations from the Kinsale Energy Gas Platform (51.37, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M1" display="inline"><mml:mo>-</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula>7.945) radar and
modelled values. In the upper left corner we provided the following
statistical parameters: Correlation coefficient (CC), standard deviation
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M2" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), bias, slope, scatter index (SI), and the number of records
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M3" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>).</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=369.885827pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f02.png"/>

      </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F3" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e173">Timeseries of significant wave height for December 2013 and January
2014 comparing observations from the Killard (52.774, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M4" display="inline"><mml:mo>-</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula>9.587) buoy and
modelled values. In the upper left corner we provided the following
statistical parameters: Correlation coefficient (CC), standard deviation
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M5" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), bias, slope, scatter index (SI), and the number of records
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M6" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>).</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=369.885827pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f03.png"/>

      </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F4" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e205">Timeseries of significant wave height for December 2013 and
January 2014 comparing observations from the the Irish Weather Buoy Network
M4 buoy (55, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M7" display="inline"><mml:mo>-</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula>9.99) and modelled values. Note that the M4 buoy was
non-operational for most of the period under evaluation. In the upper left
corner we provided the following statistical parameters: Correlation
coefficient (CC), standard deviation (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M8" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>), bias, slope, scatter index
(SI), and the number of records (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M9" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>).</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=369.885827pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f04.png"/>

      </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F5" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e237">Synoptic chart of storm “Xaver” on 5 December 2013 at 06:00 UTC.
© Crown Copyright (Met Office, UK).</p></caption>
        <?xmltex \igopts{width=341.433071pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f05.png"/>

      </fig>

      <p id="d1e247">Looking into the future wave climate, a recent study using one CMIP5 climate
model ensemble found that the number of low pressure systems and windstorms
crossing Ireland by the end of the 21st century is projected to decrease,
although not significantly, with typically 10 depressions with Mean Sea Level
Pressure – MSLP <inline-formula><mml:math id="M10" display="inline"><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> 970 hPa crossing Irish waters
annually <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx8" id="paren.3"/>. In an additional study, focusing on extreme
wave events off Ireland, Gleeson et al. (2017) found evidence of some extreme
wave enhancement under the influence of a strongly positive North Atlantic
Oscillation, off the west coast of Ireland. Further studies are required to
try to address the current uncertainties in North Atlantic wave and storm
projections and their affect on Ireland. However, it is clear that extreme
wave events are likely to continue into the future and should be planned and
prepared for.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2">
  <title>Model details</title>
      <p id="d1e266">This hindcast was performed with the third generation WAVEWATCH III (WW3)
wave model <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx25" id="paren.4"/> version 4.18 with an unstructured grid
<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx23" id="paren.5"/>. The parametrization for source terms and dissipation
(Test 451) formulated in Ardhuin et al. (2010) was implemented. The
bathymetry used was generated using a Digital Elevation Model (DEM) for
Ireland <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx6" id="paren.6"/>. The DEM combined three bathymetric sources:
Vector data obtained from OceanWise Ltd., the European Marine Observation and
Data Network bathymetric set <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx5" id="paren.7"/> and MultiBeam EchoSounders
(MBES) and LIDAR INFORMAR data from the Geological Survey of Ireland (GSI)
and Marine Institute (MI). EMODnet data has a resolution of approximately
500 m while MBES and LIDAR INFORMAR data has a resolution from 2 to 80 m.
The unstructured triangular grid has 20 235 nodes and a varying resolution
of 10 km offshore to 225 m nearshore <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx7" id="paren.8"/>. The limiting
bottom depth for the wave model was set at 5 m.</p>
      <p id="d1e284">WAVEWATCH III is driven with HARMONIE-AROME 10 m wind forcing fields and
ERA-Interim <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx4" id="paren.9"/> wave spectra with a temporal resolution of 6 h
(standard synoptic times – 00:00, 06:00, 12:00, and 18:00 UTC). The
boundary feeding was set at grid nodes on segments of the open boundary (at
the ERA-Interim grid points and between them) where the depth is larger than
90 m. Spectral domain is discretized in 24 directions and 30 frequencies
logarithmically spaced with an increment of 1.1 from 0.0345 Hz. This
coincides with the ERA-Interim wave spectra resolution. HARMONIE-AROME 10 m
winds used to drive the wave model were derived from the downscaled
ERA-Interim atmospheric model <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx7" id="paren.10"/>. The temporal resolution
of the HARMONIE-AROME 10 m winds is 1 h and a horizontal grid spacing of
2.5 km.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3">
  <title>Overview of winter 2013/2014</title>
      <p id="d1e299">The Polar jet stream marked the tracks for 12 major consecutive storms in
winter 2013/2014: 5/14/18/24/26/27 December 2013, 3/25/26 January 2014, and
1/8/12 February 2014, according to Met Éireann <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx14" id="paren.11"/>. Inland and
coastal flooding in Ireland and UK was a result of the combination of strong
winds, tidal surges, low pressure and heavy outbreaks of rain (Met Office,
2014, 2015; Met Éireann, 2013, 2014). UK suffered land and air transport
disruption, loss of power and even fatalities (Met Office, 2014, 2015). The
majority of December monthly rainfall totals in Ireland<?pagebreak page147?> were well above
average except at a few stations in the West, East and North. Co. Kerry
reported its wettest December on record since records began in 1949
(69 years) <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx16" id="paren.12"/>. Valentia Observatory recorded the lowest
minimum monthly pressure values of 947.1 hPa on 27 December due to a
depression of 944 hPa that was passing over the north and northwest coast.
Britain, Ireland and France were under long-lasting and heavy rainfall with
strong winds in the early 2014 <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15" id="paren.13"/>. All the rainfall totals in
Ireland for January were above their long term average rainfall. In January
2014 river and coastal flooding occurred with strong winds reaching up to
150 km h<inline-formula><mml:math id="M11" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>. Windstorm Christina (3rd to the 10th) with a low pressure
centre of 940 hPa caused substantial damage to infrastructure and coastal
homes in Ireland.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S4">
  <title>Methodology</title>
      <p id="d1e329">For brevity, we have chosen four of the storms that affected Ireland during
the winter of 2013/2014: (i) “Xaver” on 5 December 2013; (ii) “Christina”
on the 3rd; (iii) “Hercules” on the 5–6th; and finally (iv) a record
breaking storm on 26–27 January 2014. Each of these storms is described and
discussed in detail in separate sections below. We give an overview of the
storms importance and weather and wave conditions on the day of the storm. We
analysed time series in three locations (M4 off the northwest coast, Killard
off Co. Clare, and Kinsale Energy Gas Platform off the south coast – See
Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F1"/>) with maps of the significant wave height
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M12" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>), peak wave period (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M13" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>), and peak wave direction
(<inline-formula><mml:math id="M14" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>). We examined wind speeds and directions in three locations
taken from The Unified Climate and Synoptic Observation Network (TUCSON):
Malin Head, Mace Head, and Sherkin Island. These are Automatic Weather
Stations (AWS) which are part of Met Éireann's synoptic weather observation
network. These stations were chosen because they are both close to the
coastline and the wave measurement locations.</p>
</sec>
<?pagebreak page148?><sec id="Ch1.S5">
  <title>Validation</title>
      <p id="d1e374">We validated the model by comparing it to the buoy data available. In
Figs. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F2"/>, <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F3"/>, and <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F4"/> we show the
timeseries comparison at Killard, Co. Clare, the Kinsale Energy Gas Platform,
and at the location of the the Irish Weather Buoy Network M4 buoy. The values
of the statistical parameters for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M15" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> at different locations are
summarised in Table <xref ref-type="table" rid="Ch1.T1"/>. These parameters are defined as
following:</p>
      <p id="d1e396"><list list-type="order">
          <list-item>

      <p id="d1e401">Pearson correlation coefficient (CC):
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E1" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M16" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:munderover><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:munderover><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mfenced><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
              where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M17" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M18" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M19" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M20" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are the mean and standard deviation of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M21" display="inline"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (model values) and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M22" display="inline"><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (measured values) respectively and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M23" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the number of records.</p>
          </list-item>
          <list-item>

      <p id="d1e564">Standard deviation (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M24" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>):
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E2" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M25" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/><mml:munderover><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:munderover><mml:msup><mml:mfenced open="|" close="|"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
              where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M26" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is mean of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M27" display="inline"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>:
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E3" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M28" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:munderover><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:munderover><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
          </list-item>
          <list-item>

      <p id="d1e693">Bias:
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E4" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M29" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Bias</mml:mi><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:munderover><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:munderover><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
          </list-item>
          <list-item>

      <p id="d1e748">Slope is calculated with the polyfit (degree of fit is 1 i.e. linear fit) command <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx11" id="paren.14"/>, which solves a linear system:
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E5" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M30" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="bold-italic">p</mml:mi><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace width="0.125em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="bold">V</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="bold-italic">A</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
              where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M31" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="bold">V</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is a Vandermonde matrix of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M32" display="inline"><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p>
          </list-item>
          <list-item>

      <p id="d1e789">Scatter Index (SI):
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E6" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M33" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">SI</mml:mi><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">RMSE</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">μ</mml:mi><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>
              where RMSE (Root Mean Square Error) is defined as:
                <disp-formula id="Ch1.E7" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M34" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">RMSE</mml:mi><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.125em"/><mml:msqrt><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:munderover><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∑</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:munderover><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:msqrt><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
          </list-item>
        </list></p>
      <p id="d1e869">It can be seen that the model mostly underestimates the values of
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M35" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> at the Killard wave buoy (bias <inline-formula><mml:math id="M36" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> 0.34 m) and M4
(bias <inline-formula><mml:math id="M37" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> 0.39 m) while slightly overestimating at Kinsale
(bias <inline-formula><mml:math id="M38" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> <inline-formula><mml:math id="M39" display="inline"><mml:mo>-</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula>0.13 m), indicating that the model settings could be improved
to try to reduce the bias. As seen in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F4"/> only 25 % of hourly
records have been available for the observed period. Using the values of the
Pearson correlation coefficient, we can see that we have a strong
relationship between the measured and modelled <inline-formula><mml:math id="M40" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> with a slightly
more pronounced correlation at Kinsale and M4 (0.97) than at Killard (0.96).
For Killard, Kinsale, and M4 we have a positive relationship with Kinsale and
M4 having a higher slope closer to 1. The agreement could be improved by
feeding the model with 2-D spectra from the ECMWF operation archive, and by
refining the wind input and dissipation scheme used in the model. The
HARMONIE-AROME 10 m wind input used to force the wave model for this study
was previously validated thoroughly by comparison to over 120 land and buoy
stations and altimeter data in Gallagher et al. (2016a).</p>
</sec>
<?pagebreak page149?><sec id="Ch1.S6">
  <title>Results</title>
<sec id="Ch1.S6.SS1">
  <title>Storm “Xaver” on  5 December 2013</title>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><fig id="Ch1.F6" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e938">Observations from Met Éireann Synoptic (TUCSON) stations at
<bold>(a)</bold> Malin Head and <bold>(b)</bold> Mace Head for wind speeds and gusts
(top panels) and direction (bottom panels) on 5 December 2013. Top panels:
Red <inline-formula><mml:math id="M41" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> wind speed (kt); Green <inline-formula><mml:math id="M42" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> wind gust (kt). For context,
horizontal lines show mean speed boundaries on the Beaufort scale.
Grey <inline-formula><mml:math id="M43" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula>  Force 6 “Strong breeze” (22 kt); Turquoise <inline-formula><mml:math id="M44" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 8
“Gale” (34 kt); and Black <inline-formula><mml:math id="M45" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 10 “Storm” (48 kt). Note the
different scales for wind speed. Bottom panels: Direction of wind speeds and
gusts (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M46" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>).</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=497.923228pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f06.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><fig id="Ch1.F7" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1000">Maps of <bold>(a)</bold> significant wave height (m) with vectors
representing wind speed (m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M47" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>) and direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M48" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>),
<bold>(b)</bold> peak wave direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M49" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>), and <bold>(c)</bold> peak wave
period (s) at 08:00 UTC on 5 December 2013.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=426.791339pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f07.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><fig id="Ch1.F8" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1051">Synoptic chart of storm “Christina” on 3 January 2014 at
00:00 UTC. © Crown Copyright (Met Office, UK).</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=341.433071pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f08.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><fig id="Ch1.F9" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1063">Observations from Met Éireann Synoptic (TUCSON) stations at
<bold>(a)</bold> Mace Head and <bold>(b)</bold> Sherkin Island for wind speeds and
gusts (top panels) and direction (bottom panels) on 3 January 2014. Top
panels: Red <inline-formula><mml:math id="M50" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> wind speed (kt); Green <inline-formula><mml:math id="M51" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> wind gust (kt). For context,
horizontal lines show mean speed boundaries on the Beaufort scale.
Grey <inline-formula><mml:math id="M52" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 6 “Strong breeze” (22 kt); Turquoise <inline-formula><mml:math id="M53" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 8
“Gale” (34 kt); and Black <inline-formula><mml:math id="M54" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 10 “Storm” (48 kt). Note the
different scales for wind speed. Bottom panels: Direction of wind speeds and
gusts (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M55" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>). </p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=497.923228pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f09.png"/>

        </fig>

      <p id="d1e1123">The storm on 5 December was the first storm of the winter of 2013/2014. This
storm, named Xaver, formed off the coast of Greenland on 4 December, moved
over Northern Europe up until 7 December. The low pressure system passed
north-west of Ireland with values from 987 hPa at 00:00 UTC to 967 hPa at
12:00 UTC on the same day (Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F5"/>) causing a notable
storm surge and coastal flooding across Northern Europe. According to the Met
Éireann Monthly Weather Bulletin for December 2013, there were some heavy
outbreaks of rain on the 5th and 6th with gusty
conditions <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx16" id="paren.15"/>. Although not a substantial storm over Ireland,
it wreaked havoc along its trajectory over parts of northern Europe and
Scandinavia.</p>

<?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><table-wrap id="Ch1.T1"><caption><p id="d1e1134">Statistical parameters.</p></caption><oasis:table frame="topbot"><?xmltex \begin{scaleboxenv}{.9}[.9]?><oasis:tgroup cols="8">
     <oasis:colspec colnum="1" colname="col1" align="left"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="2" colname="col2" align="right"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="3" colname="col3" align="right"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="4" colname="col4" align="right"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="5" colname="col5" align="right"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="6" colname="col6" align="right"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="7" colname="col7" align="right"/>
     <oasis:colspec colnum="8" colname="col8" align="right"/>
     <oasis:thead>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">Location</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">CC</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M56" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M57" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">σ</mml:mi><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col5">Bias</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col6">Slope</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col7">SI</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col8"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M58" display="inline"><mml:mi>n</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row rowsep="1">
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">name</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2"/>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">(m)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">(m)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col5">(m)</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col6"/>
         <oasis:entry colname="col7"/>
         <oasis:entry colname="col8"/>
       </oasis:row>
     </oasis:thead>
     <oasis:tbody>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">Kinsale</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.97</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">1.88</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">1.79</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col5"><inline-formula><mml:math id="M59" display="inline"><mml:mo>-</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula>0.13</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col6">1.03</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col7">0.13</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col8">1481</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">Killard</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.96</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">1.83</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">2.21</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col5">0.34</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col6">0.79</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col7">0.17</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col8">1487</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
       <oasis:row>
         <oasis:entry colname="col1">M4</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col2">0.97</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col3">1.87</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col4">2.93</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col5">0.39</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col6">0.86</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col7">0.16</oasis:entry>
         <oasis:entry colname="col8">377</oasis:entry>
       </oasis:row>
     </oasis:tbody>
   </oasis:tgroup><?xmltex \end{scaleboxenv}?></oasis:table></table-wrap>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F10" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1332">Maps of <bold>(a)</bold> significant wave height (m) with vectors
representing wind speed (m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M60" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>) and direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M61" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>),
<bold>(b)</bold> peak wave direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M62" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>), and <bold>(c)</bold> peak wave
period (s) at 03:00 UTC on 3 January 2014.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=426.791339pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f10.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F11" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1384">Synoptic chart of the storm “Hercules” on 6 January 2014 at
00:00 UTC. © Crown Copyright (Met Office, UK).</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=341.433071pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f11.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F12" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1395">Maps of <bold>(a)</bold> significant wave height (m) with vectors
representing wind speed (m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M63" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>) and direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M64" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>), <bold>(b)</bold>
peak wave direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M65" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>), and <bold>(c)</bold> peak wave period (s) at
13:00 UTC on 6 January 2014 during storm “Hercules”.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=426.791339pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f12.png"/>

        </fig>

      <p id="d1e1444">After moving away from Ireland, the storm continued to track over the UK,
northern Europe and Scandinavia, causing record breaking water levels along
the German North Sea coastline <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx3" id="paren.16"/> and high seas and storm
surges in UK coastal waters <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx26" id="paren.17"/>, resulting in thousands of
flooded homes. It caused the rail network in Scotland to shut down, with
power losses, flight cancellations, fallen trees, traffic accidents, storm
surges, and fatalities in the UK <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx19" id="paren.18"/>.</p>
      <p id="d1e1456">In Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F6"/> we show the wind speeds, gusts and direction on
5 December for Malin Head and Mace Head which were affected by gale and storm
force mean wind speeds as the low pressure system tracked to the north-west
of Ireland, with winds gusting as high as 65–70 kt at Malin Head in the
north of the country for a time. A substantial drop in the wind speeds and a
change in the direction from westerly to north westerly can be seen between
10:00 and 11:00 UTC, as a cold front from the system passes over the
stations.</p>
      <p id="d1e1461">The wave model simulation produced maximum <inline-formula><mml:math id="M66" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> values of 9.25 m
at 08:00 UTC on 5 December in the North Atlantic ocean 27 km north from
Tory Island, Co Donegal. The peak wave direction ranged from 270 to
300<inline-formula><mml:math id="M67" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> and the peak wave period was between 12 and 14 s during the day
(Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F7"/>).</p>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{t}?><fig id="Ch1.F13" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1489">Synoptic chart of the storm on 26 January 2014 at 12:00 UTC. The
depression tracked to the north-west of Ireland causing record breaking waves
and <italic>phenomenal</italic> sea-states (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M68" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">14</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m).
© Crown Copyright (Met Office, UK).</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=341.433071pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f13.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><fig id="Ch1.F14" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1518">Observations from Met Éireann Synoptic (TUCSON) stations at Mace
Head for wind speeds and gusts (top panels) and direction (bottom panels) on
<bold>(a)</bold> 26 January and <bold>(b)</bold> 27 January 2014. Top panels:
Red <inline-formula><mml:math id="M69" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> wind speed (kt); Green <inline-formula><mml:math id="M70" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> wind gust (kt). For context,
horizontal lines show mean speed boundaries on the Beaufort scale.
Grey <inline-formula><mml:math id="M71" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 6 “Strong breeze” (22 kt); Turquoise <inline-formula><mml:math id="M72" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 8
“Gale” (34 kt); and Black <inline-formula><mml:math id="M73" display="inline"><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:math></inline-formula> Force 10 “Storm” (48 kt). Note the
different scales for wind speed. Bottom panels: Direction of wind speeds and
gusts (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M74" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>). </p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=497.923228pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f14.png"/>

        </fig>

      <?xmltex \floatpos{p}?><fig id="Ch1.F15" specific-use="star"><caption><p id="d1e1580">Maps of <bold>(a)</bold> significant wave height (m) with vectors
representing wind speed (m s<inline-formula><mml:math id="M75" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>) and direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M76" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>),
<bold>(b)</bold> peak wave direction (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M77" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>), and <bold>(c)</bold> peak wave
period (s) at 19:00 UTC on 26 January 2014.</p></caption>
          <?xmltex \igopts{width=426.791339pt}?><graphic xlink:href="https://asr.copernicus.org/articles/15/145/2018/asr-15-145-2018-f15.png"/>

        </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S6.SS2">
  <title>Storm “Christina” on  3 January 2014</title>
      <?pagebreak page152?><p id="d1e1635">Overnight rainfall continued throughout the day on 3 January 2014 and into
the evening hours across most of Ireland. Winds ranged from strong to strong
gale and were south to southwest direction according to the Met Éireann
Monthly Bulletin for January 2014 <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15" id="paren.19"/>. Valentia Observatory
recorded the months lowest pressure value of 956 hPa in the early hours of
3 January 2014 as this Atlantic depression passed close to the western coast,
which can be seen in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F8"/>. Flooding occurred in
Dublin, Cork, Galway, Salthill, Waterford, Tralee, Clare and Mayo, with the
rivers Shannon and Liffey bursting their banks. The Limerick flooding was a
consequence of a combination of high tides, strong winds and heavy rainfall
<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx10" id="paren.20"/>. Approximately 2800 customers in counties Donegal,
Mayo and Clare were reported by ESB Networks to be without power after strong
winds and heavy rain overnight. Wales, Scotland and western England were also
affected by flooding, due to the high tides and strong winds that accompanied
the storm. Many people were evacuated from their homes and at least one death
due to immersion was also reported <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx2" id="paren.21"/>.</p>
      <?pagebreak page153?><p id="d1e1649">The wind speeds, gusts and wind direction on 3 January for Mace Head and
Sherkin Island stations can be seen in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F9"/>. The wind
direction ranged from approximately 200 to 270<inline-formula><mml:math id="M78" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> for both stations,
with wind speeds from strong breeze to storm force 10. Wind gusts reached
maximum speeds of 70 kt at Mace Head. Maximum values of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M79" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> of
10.8 m were reached at 03:00 UTC on 3 January, 61 km southwest of the Aran
Islands, Co Galway. The peak wave direction ranged from 210 to 270<inline-formula><mml:math id="M80" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>
and the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M81" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> was from 12 to 14 s (see Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F10"/>). In
Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F10"/> a distorted wind field can be seen in the northwest
part of the model domain indicating the passing of the low pressure system
centre that caused the months lowest pressure value recorded by Valentia
Observatory of 956 hPa.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S6.SS3">
  <title>“Hercules” storm from  5–6 January 2014</title>
      <?pagebreak page155?><p id="d1e1705">On 5 January Ireland was hit by a storm, named “Hercules” by the media
(Ponce de León and Guedes Soares, 2015; Ponce de León et al., 2016), that
brought heavy showers with intermittent dry periods or light rain and strong,
south to southwest winds <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15" id="paren.22"/>. The following day was affected
by a band of heavy thundery rain moving across the country from west to east.
Heavy thundery showers transitioned to longer spells of rain. On 6 January
wind speeds were from very strong to gale with a southwestern direction.
Interestingly, the heaviest lightning activity of all the days in the month
was on 6 January <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15" id="paren.23"/>. The low pressure system of 949 hPa,
which caused the weather situation on the 6th, can be seen in
Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F11"/> approaching the west coast of Ireland from the
southwest. This system brought strong to gale force wind speeds to all three
synpotic stations with winds gusting up to 60 kt at Sherkin Island and wind
direction with a wide range from 120 to 240<inline-formula><mml:math id="M82" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> at the same station.</p>
      <p id="d1e1725">The maximum value of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M83" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> of 10.9 m was achieved on 6 January at
13:00 UTC close to Mizen Head, Co Cork. During the day, the storm
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M84" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> ranged from 240 to 270<inline-formula><mml:math id="M85" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M86" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> was between
16 and 20 s (see Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F12"/>).</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S6.SS4">
  <title>Storm on  26–27 January 2014</title>
      <p id="d1e1778">On the 26th heavy rain started in the west and northwest and gradually spread
over the rest of the country <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15" id="paren.24"/>. By 06:00 UTC on the 26th
centre of the low had deepened to 950 hPa (see Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F13"/>)
and by 12:00 UTC had deepened further to 947 hPa, located to the northwest
of Ireland, bringing gale force winds and phenomenal sea-states. When
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M87" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is 14 m or greater, the World Meteorological Organization
(WMO) defines these as phenomenal seas <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx28" id="paren.25"/>. Heavy showers, some
even with hail, continued during the day all over the country. The situation
continued on the 27th with heaviest and most frequent showers in the west and
northwest of the country. On this day winds were strong to gale wind with a
westerly direction <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15" id="paren.26"/>.</p>
      <p id="d1e1803">The low pressure system on 26 January 2014 (see Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F13"/>)
resulted in a record 23.44 m maximum individual wave height at the M4 wave
buoy at 15:00 UTC on the same day off the coast of Donegal, in
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M88" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> of over 14.65 m and mean wave period of
13.24 s <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx24" id="paren.27"/>. Phenomenal sea-states were also seen all along the
western seaboard as demonstrated at the Killard buoy, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M89" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>
observations during the storm exceeded 15 m on more than one occasion (see
Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F3"/>).</p>
      <p id="d1e1835">Figure <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F14"/> shows the wind speeds, gusts and direction
for Mace Head on 26 and 27 January. The wind speeds on the 26th ranged from
strong breeze to storm force while on the 27th for Mace Head they were from
gale to storm force winds (Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F14"/>). The wind gust
reached 70 kt on the 26th at Mace Head. The wind direction has changed from
180 to 270<inline-formula><mml:math id="M90" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> in just two hours on the 26th (from 05:00 to 07:00 UTC),
while the 27th it stayed relatively constant during the day between 270 to
300<inline-formula><mml:math id="M91" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p>
      <?pagebreak page156?><p id="d1e1860">The maximum <inline-formula><mml:math id="M92" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (13.1 m) the model reached was on 26 January at
19:00 UTC 70 km west of Black Rock, Co Mayo, but the value of
<inline-formula><mml:math id="M93" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> stayed around 13 m from 13:00–21:00 UTC that day. Hence
comparing the measured values we can see that the model underestimated the
peak value of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M94" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> by 1.5 m. The direction ranged from 270 to
300<inline-formula><mml:math id="M95" display="inline"><mml:msup><mml:mi/><mml:mo>∘</mml:mo></mml:msup></mml:math></inline-formula> with <inline-formula><mml:math id="M96" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>T</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">p</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> from 16 to 18 s (Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="Ch1.F15"/>).
<?xmltex \hack{\newpage}?></p>
</sec>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S7" sec-type="conclusions">
  <title>Conclusions</title>
      <p id="d1e1927">This study used the WAVEWATCH III model to reproduce the events
of winter 2013/2014. We simulated December and January of this winter and
analysed four storms: 5 December 2013, 3, 5–6, and 26–27 January 2014. The
maximum <inline-formula><mml:math id="M97" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> height of 13.1 m was reached by the model on
26 January at 19:00 UTC, keeping in mind that the model underestimated the
value of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M98" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">s</mml:mi></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> by 1.5 m when compared to the observations. The
model did reproduce the extreme wave events as can be seen in the validation,
but underestimated the maximum values somewhat. Phenomenal sea-states
occurred off the west coast of Ireland during the winter of 2013/2014, and
these extreme wave events need to be taken in account not only in the stage
of WEC design, deployment, and operation but also to improve our
understanding and forecasting of these extreme coastal hazards. The future
work will include carrying out this simulation with higher resolution winds,
ECMWF operational archive 2-D wave spectra and refining of model wind input
and dissipation scheme to match more closely the peaks of these powerful
storms.</p>
</sec>

      
      </body>
    <back><notes notes-type="dataavailability">

      <p id="d1e1956">The wave data will be publically available in the future
and in the meantime contact the corresponding author.
The wind data used in the analysis (from Met Éireann Tucson stations) is available online:
<uri>https://www.met.ie/climate/available-data/historical-data</uri> (last access: 28 November 2017).</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="competinginterests">

      <p id="d1e1965">The authors declare that they have no conflict of
interest.</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="sistatement">

      <p id="d1e1971">This article is part of the special issue “17th EMS Annual
Meeting: European Conference for Applied Meteorology and Climatology 2017”.
It is a result of the EMS Annual Meeting: European Conference for Applied
Meteorology and Climatology 2017, Dublin, Ireland, 4–8 September 2017.</p>
  </notes><ack><title>Acknowledgements</title><p id="d1e1977">This work is supported by Science Foundation Ireland (SFI) through Marine
Renewable Energy Ireland (MaREI), the SFI Centre for Marine Renewable Energy
Research-(12/RC/2302). The authors want to thank the Irish Centre for
High-End Computing (ICHEC) for the provision of computational facilities. The
authors thank Met Éireann for providing the M4 and Kinsale Gas Energy
Platform wave data, and the ESB for the Killard Waverider buoy data. The
authors thank Met Éireann for providing the M4 and Kinsale Gas Energy
Platform wave data, the ESB for the Killard Waverider buoy data, wind and
gust data. <?xmltex \hack{\newline}?><?xmltex \hack{\newline}?>Edited by: Conor Sweeney
<?xmltex \hack{\newline}?> Reviewed by: Reduan Atan and one anonymous referee</p></ack><ref-list>
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    <!--<article-title-html>Case study of the winter 2013/2014 extreme wave events off the west coast of Ireland</article-title-html>
<abstract-html><p>Using the third generation WAVEWATCH III wave model in an unstructured
formulation, and driven by HARMONIE-AROME mesoscale model hourly winds with a
2.5&thinsp;km horizontal resolution, we reproduce the winter storms of 2013/2014
and analyse their effect on the western coastline of Ireland. WAVEWATCH III
was forced at its ocean boundaries by directional wave spectra obtained from
the ECMWF ERA-Interim re-analysis dataset. The wave model has a high
resolution grid (up to 225&thinsp;m resolution in the nearshore) with around
20&thinsp;000 nodes, producing an abundance of important wave parameters outputted
hourly, enabling a high quality, high-resolution analysis of the winter
storms of 2013/2014.</p></abstract-html>
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storm in the North Atlantic, Nat. Hazards, 78, 1883–1897, 2015.
</mixed-citation></ref-html>
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Ponce de León, S., Bettencourt, J. H., and Dias, F.: Comparison of
numerical hindcasted severe waves with Doppler radar measurements in the
North Sea, Ocean Dynam., 67, 103–115, <a href="https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-016-1014-3" target="_blank">https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-016-1014-3</a>, 2016.
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<ref-html id="bib1.bib24"><label>Tiron et al.(2014)</label><mixed-citation>
Tiron, R., Gallagher, S., and Dias, F.: UCD School of Mathematical Sciences
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<a href="http://www.ucd.ie/mathstat/newsandevents/news/newsarchive/maintext,196126,en.html" target="_blank">http://www.ucd.ie/mathstat/newsandevents/news/newsarchive/maintext,196126,en.html</a>
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<a href="http://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/wavewatch/manual.v4.18.pdf" target="_blank">http://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/wavewatch/manual.v4.18.pdf</a> (last
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Wadey, M. P., Haigh, I. D., and Brown, J. M.: A century of sea level data and
the UK's 2013/14 storm surges: an assessment of extremes and clustering using
the Newlyn tide gauge record, Ocean Sci., 10, 1031–1045,
<a href="https://doi.org/10.5194/os-10-1031-2014" target="_blank">https://doi.org/10.5194/os-10-1031-2014</a>, 2014.
</mixed-citation></ref-html>
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Wild, S., Befort, D. J., and Leckebusch, G. C.: Was the Extreme Storm Season
in Winter 2013/14 Over the North Atlantic and the United Kingdom Triggered by
Changes in the West Pacific Warm Pool?, B. Am. Meteorol. Soc., 96, S29–S34,
<a href="https://doi.org/10.1175/BAMS-D-15-00118.1" target="_blank">https://doi.org/10.1175/BAMS-D-15-00118.1</a>, 2016.
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Wolf, D. and Wolf, J.: Impact of climate change on storms and waves, MCCIP
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</mixed-citation></ref-html>--></article>
